It is your garden. It can be a work of art,
as simple as pots along the side of the steps or an elaborate balcony container
garden. Container gardening is limited only by imagination and
desire.
With little soil or space, selecting the right
plants and containers can result in a beautiful, functional patio, deck,
balcony, walkway or doorstep. Containers provide you more control over soil,
watering, sun and shade; allowing you to make your statement in the garden.
Container gardening is also mobile gardening, with the flexibility to start
small in building your Garden of Eden and quickly change your focal points with
the seasons, new found plant treasures or your mood.
While the possibilities for container gardening are
endless, consider the following -
* Don't limit yourself to annuals. Perennials can be
mixed with bulbs and annuals for a long-blooming interesting display.
* Water containers until it runs out the drainage
holes, wait five minutes and do it again. Large containers can regularly require
a gallon of water.
* Prune any scraggly stem and deadhead flowers.
* Check the flower guides for sunlight requirements
for each plant.
* Spin containers every couple of days to provide
even sunlight.
You can grow almost anything in a container garden
with virtually no limit to the type of container you can use. Even if
anything that holds soil, is a container, make sure every container has sufficient drainage. If
there is any question about adequate container drainage, drill or punch additional holes. Roots
rot in water-logged soil.
*Put a regular pot inside a decorative container, if
you do not want holes in your planter. This can benefit some heavy drinking
plants, but they should not sit in water for an extended period.
* Setting the container on a solid surface or floor
reduces drainage. Slightly raise the container off the floor with bricks or wood
blocks.
* Cheap plastic pots may deteriorate in direct
sunlight and terra cotta pots dry out rapidly. Glazed ceramic pots, though
excellent containers, may require drainage holes.
* Redwood and cedar are best, but all wooden
containers eventually rot. Don't use any wood that has been treated with Penta
or Creosote.
* Small pots restrict the root area and dry out very
quickly. The size and desired number of plants to be grown should determine the
size of the container used.
* Gravel or newspaper in the bottom of the pot helps
to prevent soil loss.
* Use light-colored containers to decrease heat
absorption and discourage uneven root growth and keep baskets out of the
afternoon sun.
* Closely monitor porous clay pots, smaller
containers, sun or wind exposed plants for moisture loss.
Container soil
Roots require
both air and water with their fertilizer. Container soil must be porous enough
to drain rapidly, yet retain moisture. Soil or dirt is typically too heavy and
holds too much moisture. Most lightweight packaged potting mixes from the garden
center will do, but if your garden will be of any size, we recommend your own
mix: one part peat moss, one part garden loam or sandy soil (or potting
mixture), and one part coarse sand. Compost or composted bark are always good
additives. Depending on the plants, lime may be needed. Commercial potting mixes
sometimes have a high percentage of slightly acidic composted bark. This is also
a good time to add your slow-release fertilizer to the mix. Leave room at the
top of the container for water and maybe mulch.
Fertilizer
Depending on the plant requirements,
top performance may require a variety of elements and watering washes out
nutrients. We recommend slow release fertilizers and frequent watering with
diluted liquid fertilizer, if you want to be the envy of friends and neighbors.
Occasional application of liquid fish emulsion, liquid seaweed or compost will
add trace elements. Do not overdose with any fertilizer, excess fertilizer
can burn and kill your plants.
Here are a couple of final thoughts for
container planting:
*Planting in containers can be a temporary plan to
develop root systems, or can help determine whether you like its attributes well
enough to place the plant permanently in your garden.
*Planted in a containers, perennial plants (and
their offspring) will eventually become rootbound, requiring them to be stepped
up to larger pots or be divided.
*Most any perennial can be grown in
a container. As a general rule of thumb the minimum container size
should be 1 gallon capacity for each foot of potential growth, i.e. 1 foot = 1
gallon, 3 feet = 3 gallons.
*Overwintering can be a concern for some plants. If
your local temperatures fall below 15F, you may need to provide some protection
against the cold. Set the pots in a bed of mulch or for larger containers, use
of burlap or poly foam sheets wraps. You may want to overwinter some of your
containers in a unheated garage or basement, but be sure to water occasionally.
In zone 7, we over wintered thousands of plants in containers at the nursery
without extra protection. The only plant the we seem to have difficulty with are
purple coneflowers.