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Perennial Garden Tips
First, unless you love the wild look , a perennial garden is not a maintenance free garden, but it does require less work, yields more return for your efforts and will bloom year after year. Second, a well designed perennial garden does not require a degree in horticulture or years of experience. A good garden design starts with thinking about what you like and want to accomplish, and most importantly - remembering that your garden is an evolving project and that a perennial garden will take 2 to 4 years to mature.

* Choose your garden location before designing it; work with the land, not against it.
* Consider sun, wind, soil type, soil amendments and water.
* Plan the area to scale on paper.
* Consider the amount of time needed to maintain the garden.
* If needed, add organic matter to improve soil aeration and drainage - incorporate organic matter 12 inches deep. A general recommendation is 3 cubic yards of organic matter to every 1,000 square feet.
* Make a list of the plants you like and group them by color, texture and form. Also chart them by season of bloom. Consider both flowers and foliage.
* Narrow perennial designs are not as effective as wider ones. A 3:1 ratio is a good rule of the green thumb - 1 foot wide for every 3 feet in length
* Use plants in clumps. Place like plants in groups of three, five or seven (odd numbers) of each type to increase the effect of color and texture.
* Repeat groups of the same plant type two or three times throughout the space, to give it unity.
* Use tall plants at the back of a one-sided garden or in the middle of an island bed.
* Complement tall plants by gradually placing shorter plants towards the outer perimeter, ending with low border plants at the edge of the bed. Bring an occasional plant forward from their height line to increase variation.
* Use various colors, textures and forms to add interest to the garden.
* Consider bloom time and interesting foliage to create a succession of color and interest throughout the season.
* Complement perennials with annuals and bulbs for bright focal points and accents during low bloom periods.
* Leave room for plant growth and allow for individual plant growth habits. In general, plant tall perennials 18 to 36 inches apart, intermediates 12 to 18 inches apart, and dwarfs 6 to 12 inches apart. Don't place plants in straight rows -- use a scattered or triangular spacing so one mass blends into another.
* Plant perennials so they can become established before dormancy and the onset of winter.
* The most important consideration in selecting plants for a perennial garden is to group them according to their environmental and cultural requirements. A drought-tolerant plant may not thrive in moist conditions.

When you have your basic garden plan, mark out the proposed areas for planting and examine them from every angle - from different parts of the garden and the various viewing areas - consider the garden in terms of interlinking shapes rather than flowers and shrubs.

Rules of Thumb for Water Use on Lawns and Gardens
• One deep watering is much better than watering several times lightly.
• Lawns need about 1 inch of water each week. If the weather is very hot, apply an inch of water about every 3 days.
• Watering to a depth of 4-6 inches encourages deeper, healthier root development. It allows longer periods between watering.
• To measure the water, put an empty tuna can (or cat food can) on the lawn while watering. Stop watering when the can is full or if you notice water running off the lawn.

Know Your Soil
Different soil types have different watering needs. You do not need to be a soil scientist to know how to water your soil properly.
• Loosen the soil around plants so it can quickly absorb water and nutrients.
• Use a 1- to 2-inch protective layer of mulch on the soil surface above the root area. Cultivating and mulching reduce evaporation and soil erosion.
• Clay soil: Add organic material such as compost or peat moss. Till or spade to help loosen the soil. Since clay soil absorbs water very slowly, water only as fast as the soil absorbs the water.
• Sandy soil: Add organic material to supplement sandy soil. Otherwise, the water can run through it so quickly that plants won’t be able to absorb it.
• Loam soil: The best kind of soil. It’s a combination of sand, silt, and clay. Loam absorbs water readily and stores it for plants to use.

Water at the Right Time of the Day
• Early moring or night is the best time for watering to reduce evaporation.
• To help control where your water goes, water when it’s not windy.

Rules of Thumb for Proper Fertilizer Use
Fertilizers provide nutrients necessary for plant health and growth, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. These are what N, P, and K stand for on bags of fertilizer. Nitrogen (N) is needed for healthy green growth and regulation of other nutrients. Phosphorus (P) helps proper roots and seeds develop and resist disease. Potassium (K) is also important in root development and disease resistance. When properly applied, the nutrients in fertilizers are absorbed by plants and little of these nutrients enters ground or surface water resources.

Use the Right Fertilizer
Test your soil to find out what nutrients ar needed. Contact your local Natural Resources Conservation Service or Cooperative State Research, Education, and Extention Service office to get information on obtaining a soil test. Local fertilizer dealers can also be helpful. A soil test will help you understand what your plants require.

Follow label directions.
Choose a fertilizer that has at least one fourth of the nitrogen in a slow-release form, such as sulpher-coated urea.
• Leave the grass clippings to decompose on the lawn. Annually, this will provide nutrients equivalent to one or two fertilizer applications. Set mower at 2 inches to reduce water use during hot weather.

Apply Fertilizer Properly
It is best to apply fertilizer when the soil is moist and then water lightly. This will help the fertilizer move into the root zone where it is available to the plants, rather than stay on top of the soil where it can be blown or washed away.
Watch the weather. Avoid applying it immediately before a heavy rain system is predicted to arrive. Too much rain (or sprinkler water) will take the nutrients away from the lawn’s root zone.
Use the minimal amount of fertilizer necessary and apply it in small, frequent applications. An application of 2 pounds of fertilizer five times per year is better than 5 pounds of fertilizer twice a year. Calibrate your fertilizer spreader to be sure you know exactly how much material is being discharged in a given space. Follow instructions accompanying your spreader. When spreading fertilizer, cover ends of the lawn first, ten go back and forth across the rest of the lawn, using half of the recommended amount. Shut the spreader off before reaching the ends to avoid over-application. Apply the other half of the fertilizer going back and forth perpendicular to the first pattern. Dispose of fertilizer bags or containers in a safe and state-approved manner.

Alternatives to Pesticides and Chemicals
When used incorrectly, pesticides can pollute water. They also kill beneficial as well as harmful insects. Natural alternatives prevent both of these events from occurring and save you money. Consider using natural alternatives for chemical pesticides: Non-detergent insecticidal soaps, garlic, hot pepper sprays, 1 teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water, used dishwater, or forceful stream of water to dislodge insects. Also consider using plants that naturally repel insects. These plants have their own chemical defense systems, and when planted among flowers and vegetables, they help keep unwanted insects away.

Some of nature’s alternatives.
Ant - mint, tansy, pennyroyal
Aphids - mint, garlic, chives, coriander, anise
Japanese Beetle - garlic, larkspur, tansy, rue, geranium
Mice - onion
Root Knot Nematodes French marigolds
Slugs - prostrate rosemary, wormwood
Spider Mites - onion, garlic, cloves, chives
Thrips - marigolds
Whitefly - marigolds, nasturtium

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